13 October 2007

Homeward bound

It is with a tinge of regret amidst great anticipation that we make our final entry of the holiday. In three hours' time we'll be on the plane home with 13-14 hours of travel ahead, and the comfort of our own home awaiting us. Far at the back of our minds is the prospect of returning to work and all the drudgery that accompanies it, but even the idea of getting back into a routine seems somewhat attractive after two months of free days and afternoon drinking (I know, it sounds great when you put it like that, but you really do get sick of it after a while).

Anyway, picking up where we left off, we got up bright and early yesterday to go to the meeting place for our 12 hour tour to the Mekong Delta, but unfortunately George came down with a brief but intense bout of the Saigon belly and we decided to give it a miss and hung out in the hotel for a few hours until he recovered. After this, we walked to the Jade Emperor Pagoda, which turned out to be quite a mission, as it was a pretty big walk, our dodgy fake Lonely Planet guide has very confusing maps, and it was damn hot on top of that. Another weird thing about this place - the street vendors who sell big bottles of water to passing travellers seem to have two (or possibly three) sets of price signs that they interchange according to how hot it is at the time. This morning, for instance, it was really hot again and we tried to find the place we usually get 1.5 litre bottles for 5,000 dong (about 33 cents), but every stall had signs up for 8,000 instead (I know, I know, it's about 10 or 20 cents difference, but it's the principle). When we were walking back in the afternoon just after it had rained and cooled down, the price had miraculously changed back to 5,000.

Anyway, we eventually found the pagoda, which was cool but probably not really worth the walk, and then walked back to the main area and had a very tasty lunch at what turned out to be a particularly fancy Vietnamese restaurant (and still only cost us about $30). After this we were at a bit of a loss as to what to do, and after the previous day of excessive beerage, we decided to head back to the hotel for a 'rest' before dinner, which turned out to be the rest of the night lying on the bed and watching crap on TV and reading.

This morning we stuffed around until check out at 12, using the gym here in attempt to get back into an exercise routine, packing and stuff, then spent the rest of the afternoon shopping at the Ben Than markets, getting caught in yet another downpour, and having lunch and a few beers. Now we're back at the hotel filling in time until we get our taxi to the airport.

Despite our initial reluctance to even be here, we've quite enjoyed Vietnam and intend to come back one day and do some more travelling to Hanoi and possibly into Cambodia (eventually...). You hear so many accounts of journalists and photographers who worked here during the war and despite the atrocities they saw they can't stop themselves from coming back again and again (just listen to the words of Khe Sanh), and now I can kind of understand it. There is something about this place, despite the filth and poverty. Everyone is so friendly (despite just trying to get their hands on our money), a huge contrast from the generally abrupt if not rude service we experienced in most of Europe without noticing it. The main downside is that the people treat white people like royalty simply because we have so much money, and that is quite uncomfortable for people who simply want to experience the place and not get treated so differently. There are literally people employed at every restaurant simply to open doors for people, and they hang around near your table waiting for the slightest sign of you needing something.

The chaos is very disconcerting at first, but that also becomes kind of addictive after a while. Crossing even the smallest street was terrifying on the first day or two, but now we've learnt how to do it properly (look down at the street, walk very slowly, even yawning helps, and all the motorbikes just weave around you - it you try judging the traffic by looking up or walking too fast, you're bound to stuff up and have someone screech to a halt in front of you, or worse, flatten you) we make any excuse to cross a road just because it's fun.

Well, that wraps up our Vietnam experience and the end of our holiday...we leave here in about 15 minutes and it's all over. Thanks all who've been reading and enjoying, and we'll see you all soon.

Cheers
Bec & George

12 October 2007

This place is f#cking crazy!

Saigon...sh*t...

The immortal words of Martin Sheen in Apocalypse Now. They begin to make sense. This place is seriously insane. But awesome. But uncontrolled and zany. But fun. You get the idea. Basically, it's the kind of place you either fall madly in love with, or leave with your tail between your legs. Personally, I'm planning a return visit.

OK, so with the hyperbole aside, we spent our first day here doing the sights. A lot of this was, admittedly, forgettable, but the War Remnants Museum was amazing for its 180 degree view on everything we consider common knowledge e.g. the VC were national heroes (to us, 'war criminals'), the war was one of invasion (as opposed to 'opposing communism') and the brutality of war crimes the actions of patriots. But all that aside, this country has proudly become more than it hoped to after countless years of imperial repression, and is basking in its unique embrace of capitalism in a socialist guise.

Where was I? Oh yeah...after we were done with our wandering we collapsed into the rooftop bar of the Sheraton Hotel where we enjoyed spectacular views of the sun going down and half-price cocktails. We then indulged in our first bowl of pho, Vietnam's answer to the lamb sandwich. It's little more than meat and noodles in stock (with herbs and bean sprouts) but super tasty.

It was following this meal that we had our first run in with the Vietnamese wet season - dear God, when it rains here, nature doesn't stuff around. Anyhow, soaking wet we stumbled into the nearest dry place, which turned out to be called 'Guns 'n Roses Bar'. No points for guessing what music was playing. After a few beers and atrocious games of pool we braved the weather back to our hotel (about 20m down the street).

Yesterday, after a belated start due to my thinking I'd contracted chronic fatigue syndrome from the water, we continued our walk around the city, including Ben Than Markets and the (very filthy) river, then basically resigned ourselves to food and booze at a fantastic little place called The Goldfish. After what turned out to be half price beers, we were inspired to find the famed 'bia hoi', super-cheap draught beer sold by the litre. Having struck a rapport with the Goldfish staff, we were directed to the local swilling pit, where we not only indulged in litres of beer for less than $1 each, but also entertained the locals by my headbutting the door jamb of the very dubious bogger (the worst toilet in Scotland; an achievement for Vietnam). A staff member saw it happen and, after expressing requisite concern, nearly died laughing.

With 5 litres of this bia hoi to carry around in our stomachs we once again got caught in rain and, after some getting lost and extensive pointless debate, crashed out.

Today we actually got off our arses and saw the countryside. We took a boating tour out to the Cu Chi tunnels, famed for absolutely bollocking the Yankies during the Vietnam (read: American) War. It was amazing, but also disturbing, to hear all the stories we are so familiar with told from the completely different perspective. A highlight, but also one of the most terrifying things we've ever done, was to crawl through some of the tunnels that were home to VC for weeks, if not months or years. It was all f*cked up. We got out early, and were very grateful for the escape. There was literally not enough room to turn around in these tunnels; we were told to walk hunched over, but I ended up on hands and knees. Not good.

On our return we enjoyed another feed of pho, then settled in at a bia hoi bar, shortly before the skies opened up. The beer and the torrents down the street were ample entertainment until we decided to brave the short sprint back to our hotel and the pikers' dinner at our hotel restaruant. The run home was made all the more exciting by the fact there was no way of avoiding wet feet. The water was literally two feet deep at some points, and it took all my moral fortitude to wade through the filthy flood barefoot. Yuck. Needless to say, we have since showered and disinfected.

Another tour approaches very early tomorrow, so we depart. Farewell.

08 October 2007

Fading fast in Ho Chi Minh

We've just arrived in Ho Chi Minh City and are both feeling rather messed up from a combination of way too long away from home, it being about 4am in our bodies but 10am here, and no sleep since 6am yesterday morning. We arrived at 7 o'clock this morning and thankfully our hotel will allow us to check in at 10 rather than the usual 2pm, so we're only 10 minutes away from showers and a change of clothes.

We're both finding it difficult to get fired up about acquainting ourselves with yet another city, especially one as crazy as this. Our taxi driver informed us on the way to the hotel that there are 10 million people in this city, and I think every one of them was on the roads this morning. Most people ride around on scooters (no helmets of course) and no one looks where they're going. From our short walk around we've already learnt that you don't look when you cross the road, you just look down at the road, grit your teeth and walk across. They do make way but it's very frightening.

We've booked five nights here but we're already considering seeing if we can change our flights to a couple of days earlier - it's probably not possible, but it's such a good thought to get home a few days earlier than planned that we want to try!

If not, we'll make the best of our time here. We're considering doing a full day cooking course including a morning visit to the Ben Thanh Market, which is close to our hotel. We decided to buy a guide book this morning because we know literally nothing about the city, so we got a Lonely Planet guide from a stall on the street, and of course it is a dodgy photocopy inside a glossy cover. Oh well. We're too buggered and indifferent to complain, so we'll just count it as one more stupid bastard tourist mistake. Other than this we'll probably just roam the streets and drink cocktails and beer (not much different from anywhere else really).

I can't even be bothered looking up the Vietnamese word for goodbye even though we got a 'free' phrasebook with our guidebook.

Seeya

06 October 2007

On the countdown

We are literally into our last day in Europe. I can't believe it's gone so fast.

We are now in Amsterdam, but our final day in Berlin consisted of a panicked rush to meet a walking tour group that we'd already booked and paid for. We caught it after multiple train changes and much swearing. This was a good thing as the tour was really good, taking in most of the key sites and giving a quick overview of Berlin's amazing history. When the tour was over, we went back over a few sites we didn't look at properly before, and now I can't remember what else we did.

On the final night of our stay in Berlin, we found our way to the Brandenburg Gate where a major concert thing was being set up. We assumed it was to do with the national holiday celebrating the re-merging of the two Germanys, but it turned out to be a Coke 'new band competition' type thing. All the same, it was good. Getting there was bizarre - we followed the hordes around a series of blockaded roads and finally found our way into the parklands where the event was being held, only to be looking back on where we'd started. We got stuck into some potent punch, watched a few bands and left before it got too chaotic - there were probably hundreds of thousands of people there. We had a classy dinner at an American grill where we got treated to free dips, marshmallows to melt over a hibachi-style cooker and a postcard that they sent on for us. Very nice.

After another 6 hour train ride (our last) we found our way to our Amsterdam hotel which turns out to be a complete bog hole, run by a grumpy tosser. Needless to say we've been spending as little time as possible there. We had dinner at a pizza joint and pretty much crashed out.

Yesterday we spent just walking. This city is sometimes called 'the Venice of the north', and it is fitting, although it's more busy in a more city-like way than Venice. We took a cruise along the canals which was made all the more enjoyable by a crotchety old captain with a cutting wit and heavy dose of sarcasm. We got into the beers pretty much straight after that, resulting in my post-dinner stumble in the middle of a main road. I have scabs on hands and knees as evidence.

Today we went through Anne Frank's house (thanks for the recommendation, Tracy) which was thorougly moving having just read the book and also having experienced plenty more Holocaust and war history in recent weeks. In the wind up of the European leg of our trip, we will now discover a few more beers and say farewell to Amsterdam in the most appropriate way.

Next report from Vietnam!

03 October 2007

Two days in Berlin

This will have to be a quick entry as we have only 12 minutes left of internet time.

This is our second full day in Berlin and so far we've both loved it. It's a very cool city with a laid-back vibe and plenty of friendly people.

Yesterday we took a train out to the Sachsenhausen Concentration Camp, which was an interesting experience. Unfortunately all the museums were closed to we just wandered around the camp and marvelled at all that had gone on there in the past. It was a little sobering.

We then went back into the city and walked around for a while. We found this really weird area where there were numerous grey blocks of stone at various sizes but with no explanation of what it actually was (this morning we learned it was a Jewish holocaust memorial and that the lack of signage was intentional). Later we finally succumbed to a meal of Indian curries followed up by a few cocktails at a weird Incan bar before an early night.

This morning we went on a three hour walking tour of Berlin, which was quite interesting. We walked about five kilometres and saw all the main important areas of the city and we both learnt a lot we didn't know about the city's rather colourful history.

After this we wandered back to a few places we didn't spend much time at on the tour, like the biggest remaining section of the Berlin wall, had some lunch and here we are. Heading back to the hotel for a rest before we head out for the evening.

Gotta go.

01 October 2007

More beer, more beer, more beer, more beer...

That pretty much sums up our experience at the Oktoberfest yesterday. We report, much the worse for wear, from Berlin where we have just arrived after 6 hours on a train. I've had a headache for 24 hours straight and there are no pharmacies open on Sundays and no pain killing drugs available in supermarkets.

Our first day in Munich was, to put it frankly, a bit shit. It poured with rain all day long and it was bitterly cold. After becoming drenched in 10 minutes of rain, we eventually procured umbrellas and headed into the city to check things out. With the weather the way it was, it was difficult to experience much of what had been recommended to us in Munich - all the beer gardens were closed, walking around looking at the sights or seeing parklands was pretty useless, so we were restricted to shopping for Birkenstocks and going to the Augustiner Bierhalle, both of which we pulled off with some success.

The rain actually did stop in the late afternoon, so we mastered yet another metro system and went to find a jazz bar recommended by our trusty Lonely Planet guide. Unfortunately the jazz bar appeared to have been replaced by an expensive looking Italian restaurant, so we salvaged some part of the evening and ducked into another bar, which although completely empty other than staff and with pretty bad music, was actually relatively cool. A few drinks later we decided to call it a night without dinner considering we'd had a big lunch.

As something of a miracle yesterday ended up being superb weather-wise, so we boarded the tram and followed the hoards to the Oktoberfest. At first we just wandered around marvelling at the sheer size of the place, watching crazy drunk dudes on suicidal fair rides and perving on buxom wenches and cute boys in tight lederhosen.

We attempted to get into a few of the larger bier halls, but found enormous lines to get into all of them, so we contented ourselves with the smaller and slightly more sedate Paulaner hall, where we were able to get standing room to begin our day of drinking. The first beer went down remarkably quickly and we wisely decided to order some food before things got too messy. Several sausages, roast pork and potato dumplings later we braved the outside beer garden (again, standing room only) and soaked up the sun for what turned out to be a huge afternoon.

We were quickly befriended by a group of Germans from Dusseldorf who took a liking to us and asked us all sorts of questions about Australia and insisted on us teaching them an Australian beer song. They couldn't have been more delighted with the lyrically complex 'more beer, more beer, more beer, more beer...' etc and the rowdy renditions went on for several minutes at a time, always followed up with the magical refrain of 'Aussie Aussie Aussie! Oi oi oi!' It was kind of embarrassing but pretty funny.

The afternoon passed in a daze and I remember very little of it other than that every time I came back from the toilet I had a new beer. I think other people were buying us beers, because this morning we had quite a lot of money left over, which shouldn't happen when you're drinking 1 litre steins at €7.70 each.

Somehow we found our way out and back to the tram, where I continuously dropped my water bottle on the ground. On one of these occasions as I bent to pick up the bottle for the millionth time, the tram doors opened and I was surprised to discover myself sitting on my arse outside the tram. Yes, I fell out of a tram. Luckily the other passengers' amusement and my embarrassment only lasted until the next stop, where we were actually supposed to get off. I guess it would have been more appropriate if I'd fallen out there instead.

Neither of us remember anything of getting back to the hotel, but some time later we woke up lying on the bed in the dark fully clothed. In a bit of a daze and wondering what had happened, we got undressed and got in bed, and it was only as we were trying to work out what time to set the alarm for the following morning that we found to our surprise that it was only quarter past eight. Not really being up for dragging our sorry arses out to find some dinner, George went down to reception and ordered us a dodgy pizza, which I am quite sure saved my life. We very quickly passed out again, only to wake up this morning with headaches and foggy heads to make our way to the train station once again.

It's too early to have any real impression of Berlin yet, as so far we've just walked around trying without success to find me some drugs. We'll probably just have a quiet dinner and an early night, and I'm quite sure mine at least will be alcohol free for only the second time in the last 6 weeks...

Auf weidersehen