Just a quick word from me (Bec) before George requisitions the keyboard.
Returning to Vietnam is kind of like catching up with an old friend you haven't seen for years - you feel kind of anxious, worried that things are going to be awkward and you aren't going to have anything to talk about. But then once you're face to face again it's as if you've never been apart, and you just feel comfortable. And that's what it was like when we arrived in Ho Chi Minh City last night. We were inwardly cringing as we came out of the airport with our bags and the mobs descended on us to convince us to come in their taxi, and we assumed they were all trying to rip us off. But as soon as the taxi turned out of the airport onto the streets teeming with scooters, bicycles and cars, we felt instantly at home again. We're staying in the same neighbourhood as last time and have already reacquainted ourselves with the area.
OK, George's turn now.
Bec's pretty much covered it, and there's not a lot to add about our departure from Sydney and journey here. However, I must say I relished my last Vegemite toast for as much as two weeks, having a slightly hung over light breakfast around the corner from the hotel.
Flights, customs, airports, bathrooms and other facilities were all passable or better. Obviously if there was a way to cover vast distances without flying I'd prefer it, and Jetstar's lack of free, mindless entertaiment does exacerbate that. However it did give me an opportunity to do a record amount of reading (finished one book and got 10% of the way into another...) and some sleeping, which turned out to be quite handy given the time difference ended up having a bit of an impact. Another positive was that we had three seats between the two of us and it rocked not having to climb over some joker every time you went for a slash.
I concur with Bec's comments re returning to HCMC. Notable differences include an entirely remodelled airport, one which worked with remarkable efficiency, a huge amount of roadworks (not a little overdue) and a comprehensive amount of new office space coming up (PCA nerd warning:) - there seems to be a bit of 'green' space coming out of the ground too, and a heap of falling down old buildings are being cast aside for the new generation.
Another unexpected change is that most scooter riders now seem to be heeding legal warnings about wearing helmets. This is great since, despite the Vietnamese being amazingly good riders and drivers, and a traffic system that works almost organically, many people are killed each year in motorcycle and scooter accidents. Ironically though the same law seems to not apply to cyclists who remain at the mercy of all and sundry. Oh well, they know what they're doing.
OK, we need to move on but a quick blow-by-blow on our drinking repetoire for the night. After dropping off our gear (finding the hotel in a small cul de sac behind Pham Ngu Lao) we went for a bearings-seeking walk, which took all of a minute since we recognised sites almost immediately. We also spied the Bia Hoi where we got rained in during a thunderous downpour around this time last year. We had a quiet Tiger at a very Western joint called Allez Boo (we'd drunk there last time too) but the loud, crap R&B (a tautology perhaps?) and smell of spew moved us on. We only had to go a building or two to find another bar, of course full only with Aussies, and had (my foolish choice) a longneck of Tiger each (about a buck each - I adore this place). After that, realising it was about 2am Sydney time, we retired to our room, washed off sweat and plane crud and slept.
The room is tiny and the shower and bogger are virtually on top ofone another but the bed is really comfortable and Han, the proprietor, is one of HCMC's 11 million top blokes (and the place costs <$20 a night). This morning aside from breakfast (very tasty simple egg omelette) we've been watching (or listening to more accurately) Obama's history turn, or so we hope. We're heading out now to pay off our tour tomorrow then hit Ben Than Markets for some decent mosquito armour. No doubt there'll be some beers in there somewhere too.
Next report is most likely to be from the riverbanks of the Mekong. Farewell.
PS. Due to a technical complication - i.e. Optus sucks - mobile phone is not working. Either use the gmail (georgebec@gmail.com) or, if it's genuinely urgent, text Bec.
05 November 2008
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