05 February 2010

Drinking and eating among Mumbai's upper crust

Last night we experienced the haute-couture of Mumbai.

After a rest, involving a very crappy Al Pacino film about a computer-generated actress, we decided to make our way out, despite having some time to kill. Just past our hotel, immediately before the Taj Mahal Palace Hotel, we found a bar called 'Indus'. We gently spoke our way past the surly-looking guard (with the help of the bar's owner, admittedly) and found this uber-cool bar inside, with about a 10-1 ratio of staff to customers. It just so happened that it was 2-4-1 cocktail hour, so of course we had to avail ourselves with Mojitos and Singapore Slings. The bar was somewhat disconcerting; it had a feel like a young-turk gangsters' paradise, and an atmosphere to match. So we didn't stay more than two cheap cocktails.

Stumbling around the corner, past the Zegna store that abuts the Taj Hotel, we again found ourselves on the waterfront with a few minutes to kill. We figured that it couldn't hurt to have a quick drink at one of the Taj's many bars, so we approached the door and found security that'd make American airports proud. We had to put our bags through a scanner and we were both subjected to scrutiny. I guess the scars haven't fully healed.

That said, the renewed lobby (I saw it before only on CCTV footage of people being ruthlessly killed) is magnificent, and the Harbour Bar that we settled in has a stunning view of the Gateway of India and the sea. I had a Harvey Wallbanger (the best I've had) and Bec had a champagne cocktail that actually had fresh Moet in it (I heard the cork pop). They also put on awesome drinking snacks, including nose-burning wasabi peas.

With no time left we knocked back our drinks and rushed to the boat club, where our host was waiting. Mr Gulshan Rai, Esq, is President of the Royal Bombay Yacht Club, and a lovely guy. He and his wife welcomed us with a few drinks in the members' bar, where he introduced me to the fabulous Old Monk Rum. We had a few of those and a snack of chicken kebabs and sesame bread before settling into the restaurant. By this stage I must confess I'd lost the plot somewhat and let it all wash over me; I was delivered some very tasty rice dish and far too much food altogether, and the rums just kept coming. Bec had fish with a white sauce, and the four of us just spoke with some animation about life, the universe and everything.

After a kulfi (ice cream) to finish dinner, we walked back to the hotel to pass out.

Now we only have today (Thursday) to catch up on.

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